Use a Bench Top Bandsaw

Bench-top bandsaws can make intricate cuts quickly and accurately when creating wood projects in a home workshop. Using one requires practice and extreme care, but if done properly, the results are worth the effort.

Steps

 * 1)  Decide the type and size of the machine you need.  Bench-top bandsaws are usually a bit smaller than their larger stand mounted cousins.  Here are some things to consider:
 * 2) * Capacity. There are two measurements for your bandsaw's capacity, one describes the width of cut it is capable of making, the other is the thickness of the material which can be cut with it.  A typical bench-top bandsaw will make a cut about 9 or 10 inches in width, and will cut through material about 3 or 4 inches thick.
 * 3) * Cutting speed. Variable speed bandsaws have a little more flexibility than single speed machines, but cost more.  For practical purposes, a single speed saw will work for most wood-cutting projects.
 * 4) * Blade length. Although the length of the blade doesn't effect the cut itself, you will want to select a saw that uses a common size blade available with different teeth types and blade widths.
 * 5) * Table features. This refers to the table of the saw itself.  Tables made from heavy, durable materials like cast aluminum or cast iron with milled guides for miter attachments and a tilting capability provide more versatility than fixed, plain tables.
 * 6) * Ease of use. Make sure that no special tools or complicated procedures are required for setting up your saw, changing the blades, or servicing it.
 * 7) * Safety. Choose a machine which is double-insulated or has a grounding plug, and provides good visibility around the cutting area.  A lock out switch will make it difficult for children to turn the saw on if they have unsupervised access to it.
 * 8) * Power requirements. Most tools of this sort operate on the standard household electrical voltage of the country they are purchased in.  Larger, commercial/industrial machines may require 3 phase power not available to a typical homeowner.
 * 9)  [[Image:Bandsaw_031_209.jpg|thumb|The owner's manual has specific information for your model bandsaw.]]Set your saw up.  Read all the manufacturer's instructions and safety information prior to assembling a new bandsaw.  Set the machine up at a comfortable working height, often just above waist-high for the operator.  Make sure a sufficient source of light is available.  Bench-top bandsaws should be fastened to the bench to prevent the machine from overturning, and new machines should come with fasteners for this purpose.
 * 10)  [[Image:Bandsaw_028_901.jpg|thumb|Bandsaw blades come in many sizes and types.]]Select the correct blade for your cutting project.  There are two criteria for this selection, blade width and teeth per inch (TPI).  Here are examples of each:
 * 11) *Blade width. This is the physical width of the blade itself.  Narrower blades will allow a shorter turning radius for intricate scrollwork.  Wider blades tend to be more durable, since they allow for less flex and dissipate heat more efficiently.
 * 12) **1/8 inch blades are the narrowest standard blade configuration, for cutting the smallest arc possible.
 * 13) **1/4 inch blades. These are a narrow blade for cutting a small circle or arc.
 * 14) **5/16 inch blades are a mid-width or general purpose blade. They can make a radius cut of about 3 inches, depending on the hardness and thickness of the lumber, and are a bit more durable than the narrower, 1/4 inch blade.
 * 15) **3/8 inch blades are not suitable for sharp curves. They will give very good results on straight and mitered cuts, and will usually stay sharp longer than the narrower blades.
 * 16) *TPI. The number of teeth per inch will determine the effect of the cut on the material you are cutting.  A high TPI count will create a smoother cut, but cut at a slower rate, a lower TPI count will cut more quickly, but make a rougher cut.
 * 17) **16 TPI blades have very small teeth, and usually very little set, or angled offset in each tooth. They are usually used for cutting very thin material, less than one half inch thick, at slower feed rates.
 * 18) **12 TPI blades are for fine, smooth cuts in wood up to about 1 inch thick were a smooth finished cut is needed.
 * 19) **8 TPI blades are about the same as a general purpose handsaw blade, and will provide a smooth cut at a faster feed rate in wood up to 2 inches or more thick.
 * 20) **Skiptooth, variable tooth, and hook tooth blades are also available for specialized cutting purposes.
 * 21) *One other blade specification to consider is the blade's thickness. The smaller the bandsaw's wheels (the pulley-like rollers that hold and drive the blade), the thinner the blade will need to be, since it is continuously bending as it rolls around these components.
 * 22)  Make sure your saw is unplugged when performing the following steps.  Simply turning the saw off is not a safe alternative, since it is possible the switch could be bumped while you work on the machine.
 * 23)  [[Image:Bandsaw_018_12.jpg|thumb|Checking the blade's tension, remember, the teeth are sharp!]]Adjust the bandsaw's blade tension according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Most bandsaws have a tension adjustment screw or knob on the upper, rear portion of the machine.  Your blade should be tight enough it doesn't slip or deflect when cutting, but running a blade too tight can damage your saw.  A normal test of blade tightness is to raise the blade guide to maximum height, and press against the blade sideways.  It should move about 1/8 of an inch with a few pounds of force applied in this manner.  Again, refer to the manufacturer's instructions for your machine's specific information.
 * 24)  [[Image:Bandsaw_019_852.jpg|thumb|Spinning the upper wheel by hand while watching the blade track to check alignment.]]Check the tracking of your blade.  For this step, you will need to open the cover on the upper wheel assembly, usually held shut with clamps or knob screws.  Turn the upper wheel by hand and observe the blade's position on the wheel.  It should run in the center of the wheel without wobble or deviation for 10-20 complete revolutions.  Turn the tracking adjustment knob to correct the blade position on the wheel if it does not.  Close all access panels when this step is complete.
 * 25)  [[Image:Bandsaw_015_782.jpg|thumb|The two knobs in this photo are to release the blade guide so it can be adjusted.]]Set up the blade guides.  Most, if not all, benchtop bandsaws have a movable blade guide extending down from the upper wheel housing.  There is usually a thumbknob or lever which locks/unlocks this device to allow it to be changed quickly and easily.  You will want the blade guide to be fairly close to the surface of the wood stock you are cutting, but not so close it could bind or jam your wood.  Allow at least 1/4 inch of clearance from the thickest part of the stock, and lock the guide in position.
 * 26)  [[Image:Bandsaw_023_744.jpg|thumb|This is a view underneath the saw's table, where you can see a scaled angle indicator and the locking lever and adjusting knob.]]Adjust the saw's table.  For a square cut, one that is perpendicular to the work table, use a block square or a square piece of stock to visually check the blade alignment.  If your saw has been preset to zero on a scaled angle indicator, use the zero or 90 degree mark to facilitate this step.
 * 27)  [[Image:Bandsaw_026_195.jpg|thumb|Here, the miter guide is set in its track to guide the stock into tha blade.]]Set miter guides if you are using them to make a straight cut.  Miter guides will hold your work stock in alignment between ninety and forty five degrees while cutting straight lines, if your saw is equipped with them.
 * 28) [[Image:Colt21_762.jpg|thumb|Make clear, distinct marks to guide you in the cutting process.]] Mark out your cut on the wood stock you are using.  Make clear, easily distinguished lines, using either a soft lead pencil or a marker suitable for this purpose.  Do not use an ink marker on wood that is to be naturally finished or stained with a transparent or translucent stain!
 * 29)  [[Image:Bandsaw_027_129.jpg|thumb|Here is a low angle view of a piece of stock to check the blade guide clearance.]]Check all the necessary clearances for your cut.  You do not want to be halfway through the cut only to find out the workpiece will not turn or feed though completely. It is now time to plug your saw in.
 * 30)  Make your cut.  Turn on the saw, allow it to come up to speed, and note that the blade is traveling in a straight, true line.  If there is any observable wobble or deflection in the blade, stop and recheck the assembly for proper adjustment! Keep your fingers as far as possible from the bandsaw's blade, and feed the stock so that the blade follows the cutting mark you have made.

Tips

 * Select a bandsaw suitable for the whole range of your cutting needs. Bench top bandsaws are convenient where space is limited, but larger, floor mounted machines are much more versatile.
 * Keep your machine serviced correctly and clean. Removed accumulated dust from dust exhaust tubes, and oil the blade guide bearings regularly.

Warnings

 * A bandsaw, like any power tool, can be dangerous if it is misused. Provide a large enough surface that the stock can be held and fed into the blade while fingers are kept a safe distance away.
 * Always unplug your saw when adjusting it or replacing blades.
 * Wear safety glasses and a dust mask while cutting.
 * Make sure you have sufficient illumination for the task at hand.

Things You'll Need

 * Bandsaw with suitable blades.
 * Bench or table to mount the saw.
 * Wood stock for your project needs.

Related Tips and Steps

 * How to Use a Wood Lathe
 * How to Operate a Chainsaw
 * How to Use a Portable Bandsaw

Sources and Citations

 * http://www.toolcenter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=LENOXTS
 * http://www.toolcenter.com/BLADE_SELECTION.html