Restore a Native Prairie

A prairie is an ecological system dominated by grasses, common in areas where there's not enough rainfall to support trees (such as the Great Plains of the United States and Canada). Planting a native prairie is an endeavor worthy of your time and effort. Not only does it increase biodiversity of native plant species and conserve rapidly disappearing topsoil but a prairie is also low-maintenance (in comparison to a lawn, thus reducing resource consumption and increasing free time) and aesthetically pleasing once mature. Following this outline, you will be able to plant, maintain and restore a native prairie.

Steps

 * 1) Select a site. When selecting a site, look for areas with maximum sun exposure and lack of competition. Trees, especially those with a high surface root density like maple and basswood, shade out prairie species and compete for soil nutrients and water. Spruce and most other conifers are not good in prairies. If burning is part of the maintenance plan, check local regulations and permit procedures.
 * 2) Prepare your site. In mid-spring, clear the site of existing vegetation. Seeds, if broadcast into existing vegetation, have relatively little chance of success. If weeds, turf or other vegetation currently exist on your site, they will need to be eliminated.
 * 3) *Prepare your site--alternative method. If you prefer a more natural method, or if you wish to avoid a chemical process, you can hand-pull the weeds from the area. While this will take a lot more time, the weeds can be fully eliminated this way.
 * 4) *One way to clear the site is with a Glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup. Because it is a non-residual, contact herbicide, Roundup does not continue its herbicidal activity in the soil. Be sure to follow all label directions. Allow 10 to 21 days after herbicide application before disturbing the vegetation with other procedures. Be warned, however, because these types of herbicides will runoff into any nearby water source (such as a stream, pond or lake) and are deadly to any type of amphibian. Soon after using Roundup (which is one of the worst for these things) all those choruses of singing frogs will be gone! Try to find a natural herbicide, or one that won't harm the animals that will help your prairie become a self-sustaining ecosystem!
 * 5) *If the existing vegetation was tall and/or dense it will be necessary to remove the dead plant material. It can be burned off or it can be mowed and then mulched or raked away.
 * 6) [[Image:Rototilling_435.jpg|thumb]]Create a seed bed of freshly worked soil; roto-till the area to a depth of 1 to 4 inches (2.5 to 10 cm). Keep in mind that weed seeds frequently lie dormant beneath the soil surface and germinate after they have been exposed. If your area was initially densely populated with weeds, especially problem weeds such as quack grass, thistle, leafy spurge or sweet clover, allow the weed seeds to germinate and begin growing. Then repeat the spraying and tilling process. This second round is optional, but does produce a cleaner seed bed. Finally, rake the soil to create a smooth, firm seed bed. This improves the condition of the seed bed, giving seeds a better chance to germinate and grow.
 * 7) *If the soil structure lacks organic material and looks like it is made up of just clay, add a thin layer of peat (1/4 to 1/2 inch or .6 to 1.25 cm deep) to the top of the ground, then mix it in with the roto-tiller.
 * 8) *Do not add chemical fertilizer. See Warnings below.
 * 9) [[Image:Grass_677.jpg|thumb]]Plant the seeds. The best time to seed is from the spring thaw to late summer (early August in North America). In the fall, seeding can take place from September 20 through freeze-up in the US. On prepared seed beds on sites with little competition from other plants, winter seeding can also be effective.
 * 10) *A suggested planting density is 500 cubic centimeters of seed (about a full 8-ounce plastic cup of seed) for each square meter. Look for seed from locally grown plants, as they'll be better adapted to the site. Focus on native plant species for a native prairie. See the Tips below for more details on preparing the seeds.
 * 11) *Hand planting is the simplest and most reliable method of seeding. Adjustable hand-held spreaders may work with the grass seed although they tend to get clogged. Wildflower seed should always be hand planted.
 * 12) *Spread grass seed first. To ensure even coverage, divide the seed in half and plant the first half over the entire area. Work slowly and carefully. Plant the second half at a perpendicular angle to the first seeding. Lightly rake the grass seed into the soil to ensure soil contact.
 * 13) *Wildflower seed should be planted last and can be spread evenly or concentrated in bands or swaths across your prairie area. Much of this seed is quite small. Spreading it thinly will produce the best results. Do not rake in the flower seeds.
 * 14) *Watering at this point is helpful but not necessary. Native prairie species should be well adapted to rainfall conditions on your site, and watering may encourage non-native species (weeds) to germinate. If you do decide to water, it is important to follow through until the seedlings are established. Watering to begin germination and then letting the soil dry out can prove disastrous for sprouting seedlings.
 * 15) Plant potted seedlings. If you wish to include them, these should be added after seeding. Potted seedlings can be planted anytime from spring thaw to freeze-up, although those planted in mid-summer may require supplemental watering. Seedlings can be planted throughout the site or in designated areas of the project. Ideally, natural rainfall will provide enough water, but dry weather during the first 10 days may necessitate supplemental watering.
 * 16) *If you're starting the seedlings yourself, they should germinate about 8 weeks before planting and be hardened for about a week before planting. Hardening means gradually getting the plants used to outdoor conditions by leaving them outside at the site for a little more time each day.
 * 17) Mulch. While mulching is not required, it does provide some erosion control and aids in soil moisture retention. Mulch lightly (soil visible through mulch) with clean oat or wheat straw. Make sure not to use hay, because it contains seeds you do not want to introduce to your area.
 * 18) [[Image:Prairie_729.jpg|thumb]]Maintain your prairie. A prairie landscape takes time to develop, requiring patience and careful management the first few years. However, if your prairie was planted correctly and you follow these maintenance instructions, your prairie will mature into a unique, self-sustaining natural landscape.
 * 19) *Year one: Most prairie plants are perennials. Although perennial seeds will germinate the first year, the young seedlings' root growth will be two to three times their above-ground growth, and they may not flower until the second or third year. While this lack of visual growth can be frustrating, keep in mind that it is the strong root system of prairie perennials which enables them to be nearly maintenance-free at maturity.
 * 20) **During this early stage of growth, weeds will take advantage of the lack of above-ground vegetation and appear on your site. To minimize the effects of tall weeds shading prairie seedlings and to prevent these weeds from setting seed, you should plan to cut your planting one, two, or even three times during its first growing season. This is generally done on 30-day intervals using a scythe, mower or line trimmer. Scything is often best, as the cutting height should be kept between five to eight inches. Mowing is also effective, but it is important to keep the blade set as high as possible. Hand weeding is also useful during the first growing season, especially to remove individual noxious weeds. These and invading woody plants may have to be treated with spot spraying.
 * 21) *Year two: During the second season, residual seeds from the first season will germinate and some of the faster-growing native plants will flower and produce seed. There might still, however, be a need for weed control and one mowing might be necessary sometime between mid-June and mid-August. The height and density of the weed cover should help determine if and when to mow. In areas where weeds are especially dominant, the advantages of cutting the weeds and preventing them from setting seed offset any disadvantages of cutting prairie plants. Spot spraying might still be necessary this year.
 * 22) *[[Image:Prairie_960.jpg|thumb]]Year three: By the third year (and in the years to follow) your patience will begin to pay off. Both grasses and flowers will be mature, providing beautiful, low-maintenance returns. One cutting per year can be used as a clean-up procedure. The best time to cut off old prairie vegetation is in early May or late November (after you've enjoyed the gold, lavender, russets, and maroons of an autumn prairie). In areas where prairie plants were especially tall and dense, mulch or rake away the dead plant material.

Tips

 * When buying seeds, ask if they have been "stratified". Without stratification, seeds may germinate in late fall or winter and subsequently die because of freezing temperatures. If the seeds aren't stratified, you can encourage this natural process by keeping them in your garage or other protected, but unheated, area over the winter months or storing them, usually dry or sometimes damp, in the refrigerator for about 8-10 weeks (but some species need up to 16 weeks).
 * Some seeds (e.g. Wild Indigo) may need scarification (scratching or cutting of the outside covering) in order to germinate. Seeds develop thick hulls to survive the chemical and mechanical processes associated with being eaten and digested, and have evolved to only germinate after this process has occurred. You can replicate scarification by grinding seeds between sandpaper blocks or screening material for about 15 seconds.
 * Fire is another method of removing old prairie thatch. In natural prairie ecosystems, fire not only gets rid of accumulated thatch, it also helps reduce woody plant invasion and stimulates the growth of many native grasses and wildflowers. Rotation between prescribed burns and cutting is ideal for prairies and savannahs. The best time to schedule a burn is in the early spring.
 * [[Image:Prairie_570.jpg|thumb]]After burning, the site will appear blackened and there shouldn't be much plant material left. Since native prairie species have intricate root structures that remain unaffected by fire (while non-native species burn and die), you can expect the prairie plants to begin returning after one or two weeks.
 * Another way to get rid of exotic weeds and the exotic seeds that can remain dormant in the soil for many years, is to cover the area in clear plastic. The clear plastic will create a greenhouse atmosphere so all the exotic seeds will start growing, but then be scorched by the sun through the clear plastic.  You could use black plastic, which would kill the weeds that had already sprouted, but the clear plastic is better.  Then, you are ready to manually remove the dead exotic vegetation and plant the prairie seeds.

Warnings

 * At no time should fertilizers be used. Prairie plants are well-adapted to their environment and do not need fertilization. This expensive, time-consuming and often environmentally unfriendly procedure is not only unnecessary on a natural landscape but is detrimental because it can encourage weeds and other undesirable vegetation.
 * Keep in mind that a controlled burn is a useful maintenance tool, but requires some expertise. Be certain to check local regulations and permit procedures and, when burning, always use caution.
 * Use caution when deciding where to plant your prairie. When dry, prairie grasses burn extremely fast and hot.  Fires can be started accidentally.  Do not plant prairie grasses near structures or other places that fire would endanger life and property.  Prairie flowers do not burn as easily; use prairie flowers if you want to bring a little of the prairie close to your home.

Related Tips and Steps

 * How to Create a Rain Garden
 * How to Grow a Clover Lawn
 * How to Save Water With a Sleeping Lawn
 * How to Create a Weed Free Lawn Without Using Harmful Chemicals
 * How to Grow a Ficus Benjamina
 * How to Grow Sarracenia (North American Pitcher Plants)
 * How to Make Tripods for Climbing Beans and Tomatoes
 * How to Plant Onions

Sources and Citations

 * Ion Exchange - Original source, shared with permission.