Help a Cat Give Birth

Whether you are breeding purebred cats for a living or you are responsible for a cat that has become pregnant in your care, it is important to know what to do when the cat goes into labour and begins to give birth to her kittens (technically referred to as "queening"). It is important to get the supplies together, to have a sterilized area for her and to be on hand to help if needed. Here is how you can do your bit to make it easier for her.

Steps

 * 1)  Accept that for the most part, your cat will not need you but it will probably reassure you to hover around in the background and be prepared for complications.
 * 2) Take the pregnant cat to a licensed veterinarian to get checked out, if you can.
 * 3) Set up a nest. Usually she will display nesting signs days before the birth is imminent and this is the perfect opportunity to direct her to the quiet, dark corner that you have already prepared for her. Cut down a large cardboard box with high sides and fill with old towels, fluffy blankets, newspapers etc., basically any old soft thing that you can spare and do not mind getting soiled. It shouldn't have any strong scents, since the mother and kittens recognize each other by smell. The laundry or a bathroom are great places to encourage her to remain; just ensure that no kids or dogs are rushing through this spot at any time. The mother must feel safe and relaxed in her nesting area. She should have easy access to fresh water, a little bit of food, and the litter box (which should be about two feet away--putting it too close can increase the chance of disease).
 * 4) Set up a holding box to place the kittens in while their siblings are being born. It should be close to or next to the nest. Place warm water bottles on the bottom with a few towels over it to protect the kittens from getting burned and also to keep the warmth in the box. Do not use a heating pad because even if it's on low and there are blankets covering it, there is still the risk of the kittens getting burned.
 * 5)  Prepare the cat.
 * 6) *If you have a long-haired cat, you may wish to consider cutting the hair away from around the vulval region in advance (a few days or a week before birth). Some people also advise clipping long hair away from the nipples to assist the kittens in feeding. If you can't do it ahead of time, however, don't do it at all, as it could interfere with the kittens recognizing the mother's natural smell. This is not necessary but it can assist you in watching to see if the kittens are exiting correctly during the birthing.
 * 7) *Continue feeding her high quality food until she displays a reduction in appetite, which is a usual sign just before labor commences.
 * 8) Know the signs that are likely to be displayed when your queen is going into labor. This is generally known as Stage 1, and will last between 12 and 24 hours:
 * 9) *She becomes listless and restless, looking for a place to hide (show her the nest)
 * 10) * She grooms excessively, including licking her vulva
 * 11) * She paces a lot and pants
 * 12) * She will purr and cry loudly
 * 13) * Her temperature will usually drop a point or two from the normal 102ºF/38.9ºC.
 * 14) * She will likely cease to eat.
 * 15) * She may vomit.
 * 16) * She may discharge blood.
 * 17) Keep calm. Once the mother enters her nesting box and labor commences, the best thing you can do is to keep calm and be prepared. If there are any disturbances or animals around, or if she is moved to a strange place, she will delay labor.  Otherwise, the process of birth is about to ensue, known as Stage 2:
 * 18) *The placental plug will be expelled a few hours before delivery. This protected the uterine region from infection during pregnancy.
 * 19) *The cervix starts to relax and the queen begins uterine contractions.
 * 20) *There's a build-up in contractions as the first kitten enters the birth canal. Contractions should be at 2 - 3 minute intervals and the mother will probably be in a crouched position. She may cry out and pant.
 * 21) *The amniotic fluid (water bubble) comes through first, followed by the kitten (either head first or rear paws first).
 * 22) *Once Stage 2 of the labour commences, it will last about 30 minutes to an hour and then the first kitten should be born. Each subsequent kitten will be about half an hour apart, sometimes up to an hour.
 * 23)  Ensure that the mother removes the amniotic sac from each kitten. This membrane is usually removed by the mother through licking. The kitten should be breathing and moving within seconds as a result. If she doesn't help the kitten quickly, break the membrane with your hands (wearing gloves) around the face to ensure that the kitten can breathe. Wipe the face clean with a gauze cloth.
 * 24)  Check for the placenta. There is one placenta per kitten and it should be expelled after the birth of each kitten. Note each placenta because a placenta that is left inside a mother will become infected and will most likely result in the death of the mother unless you seek medical attention. Do not attempt to pull out a placenta yourself - if you tug on the umbilical cord and it causes the uterus to rip, the mother could die.
 * 25) * Note that the mother normally eats the placenta. It is full of hormones and nutrients that need to be returned to her body so do not interfere in this process - just be sure she doesn't try to eat the kitten with it out of lack of experience.
 * 26) *You may want to let her eat the first two or three placentas and then take away the rest, as too many of the nutrients can cause diarrhea or vomiting.
 * 27)  Cut the umbilical cord for each kitten only if the mother does not tear it off herself. Wait for five minutes after the birth of the kitten before clamping the cord. Use forceps to clamp and then use the scissors to cut it. Make a jagged cut rather than a straight one, since a straight incision causes more blood outpour, thus leaving more room for complication. Leave about 1 inch/ 2.5 cm attached to the kitten. If in doubt, err on longer rather than shorter, but keep in mind that if the umbilical cord tangles and dries around any of kitten's body parts, it can lose a limb or die. Wash the end of the cut cord in antiseptic solution to prevent infection. After you have cut the cord, if it continues to bleed, you can tie it up with unwaxed dental floss.
 * 28) [[Image:Kittens (at the start) 9698.jpg|160px|right]]Help by placing kittens into the second box. While she is actually giving birth, you can assist by placing the kittens that have already been born into the second box with the heated pad. This is optional and serves to protect the kittens if the mother is moving a lot. If you are uncomfortable with moving them at all, just reassure yourself that cats have been managing without our intervention for a very long time.
 * 29) *Never do this without gloves on. You do not want to transfer your human scent to them as this may interfere with the bonding process.
 * 30) *If they have just been born, hold them gently with the head down to allow fluid to drain out of the lungs.
 * 31) *Return the kittens promptly.
 * 32)  Make sure that the kittens nurse as soon as possible. The early milk contains valuable colostrum with antibodies for the kittens. Be aware that kittens are both blind and deaf when they are born, so they will be seeking out the mother's nipples by smell and touch. Sometimes they do so right away, and sometimes they wait several minutes while they recover from birth. If there is a problem with the milk coming in, this may be indicated by the kittens trying to nurse and meowing instead. The mother may wait until all of the kittens are born before allowing them to suckle. Sometimes, however, a queen's milk does not come in. See the vet, who may be able to stimulate it.
 * 33)  [[Image:Kittens (at the end) 5595.jpg|160px|right]] Record each birth. Record the time of birth, the gender, weight (use kitchen scales) and when the placenta was delivered.

Tips

 * Be patient during the births of each kitten. It is important to time them but anything from 30 minutes to 60 minutes is normal and nothing to worry about. See "Warnings" for when to become concerned. The queen will rest between births and allow the kittens that have been born to suckle. She may even leave her box and walk about for a bit.
 * Don't be alarmed if one of the kittens is stillborn (dead). Make sure he or she is really dead though before disposing of him or her appropriately. Try to revive a limp kitten by rubbing him or her briskly to stimulate him or her. Use a warm, damp facecloth to rub with. Other things you can try include raising and lowering his or her's legs and blowing into his or her's face and mouth.
 * A kitten that is cool to touch can be placed on a warm water bottle.
 * If a kitten makes choking or gurgling sounds, it has fluid in its air passages. Hold the kitten between your hands with the head on your fingertips (think of making a sling from your hands). Gently swing the kitten downward. This will help to force the fluids out of the kitten's lungs. Use a gauze pad to wipe its face. Be sure to use gloves but be careful, as a newborn kitten is very slippery.
 * If the mother cat appears disinterested in her kittens, try rubbing her scent onto them. If she persists in not being interested, you may have to care for the kittens yourself. This will involve constant feeding and an incubator. It is too involved to explain as part of this article. Seek the vet's advice.
 * Keep plenty of good quality food and fresh water immediately next to the nest. The cat should not have to move far to eat and she will need to eat a lot. For the first day or so, she may not get up at all; keep the food near her bed if possible.
 * When birthing time is near, consider putting dark sheets and blankets on your bed, because despite your carefully made birthing box, she may decide that the perfect place to give birth is your bed, because it is snug under your covers.
 * Unless you are deliberately breeding cats, consider spaying your cat, both for the sake of any future kittens (many unexpected kittens end up feral, starving, or euthanized) and for the sake of your cat (spaying decreases the risk of having a pyometra later on down the road--a pyometra is when the the uterus fills with pus after a heat cycle, leading to infection and imminent death if your female isn't seen).
 * A warm wash cloth, a little warmer than body temperature, is a great comfort to the birthing cat. Place the warm wet cloth on the vulva, and surrounding area, in between kittens. This is a great comfort to the mother cat. Please note to use more than one wash cloth for sanitary reasons and not to chance infection.

Warnings

 * If your cat is in labour and if she doesn't have her first kitten within 2 hours of active labour commencing, then you should see a vet immediately! There may be something wrong. This also applies if there is more than an hour's delay between each kitten. Do not panic, however, as the best thing you can do is to remain calm for the sake of the mother and her kittens. Realize also that there are recorded cases of it taking several days to birth all the kittens!
 * Other problem signs to be aware of and to see a vet for immediately include:
 * a first kitten that does not come out following an hour of hard contractions
 * partial delivery of a kitten that proceeds no further
 * loss of bright red blood from the vagina

Things You'll Need

 * Antiseptic solution (for example, Betadine) - you will need this to sterilize anything you use near the cat or on her, such as the scissors and forceps; and for the umbilical cord once it is cut
 * Small forceps (see a vet for advice or a reputable cat store)
 * Scissors (dull)
 * Gauze pads
 * Hot water bottle or heating pad - these will help to keep the kittens warm
 * Thin Rubber Gloves
 * Old, clean towels, sheets or blankets for layering in the nest box
 * 10 + clean wash cloths, for the mother cat. (these will be the warm wet cloths for in between birthing the kittens, to pack the vulva and surrounding area)
 * Cardboard boxes - one as big as you can get it, cut down to the size of a cozy bed with high sides for the mother and a smaller one with a heat pad for placing the kittens on
 * Kitten formula (if the mom doesn't have milk) and bottles.

Related

 * How to Take Care of Kittens
 * How to Shampoo a Kitten for Fleas
 * How to Teach Your Kitten to be Calm and Relaxed
 * How to Maintain Your Kitten's Litter Box
 * How to Pet a Kitten
 * How to Put a Collar on a Kitten
 * How to Make a Kitten Cage
 * How to Litter Train a Kitten

Sources and Citations

 * Queening (Giving Birth) - Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.