Repair a Fiberglass Tub or Shower

Fiberglass showers and bathtubs are durable, easily maintained, and attractive fixtures, but they may still be accidentally damaged. Fortunately for homeowners, there are inexpensive kits available that can be used to make repairs if this happens.

Steps

 * 1)  [[Image:Tubrepair17_842.jpg|thumb|Contents of a repair kit]]Purchase a suitable kit for your shower (or bath tub).  You should make sure your shower or bath tub is fiberglass before going shopping, as these instructions will not give good results on cast iron or other types of fixtures.
 * 2) * Make sure your shower is fiberglass by tapping it with your knuckle or a wooden spoon or similar item which will not damage the finish. A fiberglass unit will have a soft, hollow, non-metallic sound, and depending on where you tap it, may even seem flexible.
 * 3) * Choose the appropriate color for the kit you will purchase. Most kits come with colorants (tinting products) to change the color of the product to match common colored fixtures, such as white, off white, or almond.
 * 4) * Make sure the kit you buy comes complete with everything you need, or purchase these materials and tools seperately. The following is a list of what your kit may contain:
 * 5) ** Polyesther resin
 * 6) ** Hardener (catalyst to harden the resin)
 * 7) ** Fiberglass mesh or mat (for large or structural repairs)
 * 8) ** Colorants
 * 9) ** Sandpaper in assorted grits, from 80 grit (coarse) to 400 or 440 grit (very fine)
 * 10) ** Thickener (to stiffen the resin for vertical applications)
 * 11) ** Protective gloves resistant to the chemicals included in the kit
 * 12) ** A mixing container and stirring tool
 * 13)  [[Image:Tubrepair5_267.jpg|thumb|cracked fiberglass shower unit before cleaning]]Clean the area to be repaired.  Cut any jagged or protruding glass fibers around the damaged area, sand it lightly with a medium grit sandpaper to remove wax, oil, soap scum, or other surface contaminants, and rinse with acetone or another solvent to assure proper adhesion of the repair product.
 * 14)  Determine if the damaged area will require fiberglass cloth reinforcing.  If it does not, skip to the step describing mixing and tinting instructions.  If the crack is over one fourth of an inch (1/2 cm) wide, or is actually an open hole that the resin mixture will not fill alone, cut a piece of fiberglass mesh or cloth slightly larger than the hole.  For large holes or cracks, more than one layer of cloth may be needed to get good results.
 * 15)  [[Image:Tubrepair16_305.jpg|thumb|Reading these is a good place to start]]Read the mixing and tinting instructions of the product you have purchased.  Since individual products may vary, and measuring the materials you mix is essential, make sure you understand these instructions before proceeding.
 * 16)  [[Image:Tubrepair15_924.jpg|thumb|Pouring the polyesther resin into mixing container on a sheet of cardboard]]Place a protective material like cardboard or heavy construction paper on the surface you will mix the material on.  Place the container you will mix in (usually supplied in the kit you purchased) on this surface.
 * 17)  Measure the amount of polyesther resin into the mixing container you think you will need for your repair.  Most kits have mixing proportions for fractional portions of the resin provided, such as 1/4th of the volume, 1/2, etc., mixed with an equal proportion of hardener.
 * 18)  [[Image:Tubrepair14_277.jpg|thumb|Colorant in resin before mixing]]Add the colorant from the correct tube that came with the kit.  An example would be for almond, mix 5 parts white with 1 part brown, to 20 parts of resin. For basic white, use the white colorant added until the resin is thoroughly opaque.  Mix these components thoroughly, and check the color against the fixture you are repairing before adding the hardener.
 * 19)  [[Image:Tubrepair9_150.jpg|thumb|Mixing the resin with thickening agent to desired consistency]]Mix thickening material into the resin/colorant mixture until it is a desired consistency for your patch. Vertical surfaces need to be very stiff so the product does not sag, drip, or run.  For horizontal repairs the material can be thinner, but it still should be stiff enough that it can be tooled smooth with the applicator.
 * 20)  [[Image:Tubrepair8_295.jpg|thumb|Adding the hardener to the mixture]]Add the hardener according to the kit's instructions.  If you cannot find a workable proportion, you may have to make an educated guess as to how much you will need.  Generally speaking, too much hardener will only accelerate the process, allowing less working time, and too little will delay the setting time.  If you fail to add enough hardener to set the resin, however, it will remain tacky indefinitely.  For a ball-park estimate, add 5 drops of hardener to each tablespoon of resin/colorant mixture.
 * 21)  Mix the repair material thoroughly.  The longer you stir the material, the better the results will be, making sure that all of edges and corners are incorporated so that it hardens equally.  Remember, though, that once you add the hardener, the reaction that solidifies the resin will begin, so you can only expect 10 to 15 minutes total working time before the resin becomes unusable.
 * 22)  [[Image:Tubrepair4_603.jpg|thumb|Spreading the repair material on the crack]]Using a flat tool like a putty knife or wooden tongue depressor, scoop out some of the mixture and apply it to the damaged area. If you are using fiberglass cloth for your repair, place the piece you have cut over the damage, and press it into the resin repair mixture.  Make sure you spread it evenly, and to a level slightly higher than the original surface so it can be sanded down and feathered smooth when you finish.  Once the repair material is applied, allow it to harden, typically about 2 hours at room temperature.
 * 23)  [[Image:Tubrepair2_30.jpg|thumb|Sanding a patch with a small piece of paper to avoid scuffing the adjacent surface]]Sand the patch carefully, trying not to scuff the adjacent areas. If you used fiberglass cloth, you may need to trim any fibers that are protruding with a sharp utility knife before sanding.  Begin with a fairly coarse grit of sand paper, depending on how much of the patch has to be removed to make it flush with the original surface.  Work your way from a coarse or medium grit to a fine, then very fine grit sandpaper, until the repair is smooth.  If you need to build up the repair further, mix another application and apply it to the damaged area, then repeat the sanding.
 * 24)  [[Image:Tubrepair1_239.jpg|thumb|Applying a finish coat of patch material to smooth surface]]Mix another batch of resin and colorant to overlay the first patch, without the thickening agent.  You can apply this with a small artist's paintbrush, or if it is a small chip or ding, even a cotton swab will do.  Smooth this application as much as possible, allow it to harden, then sand it with very fine sandpaper.
 * 25)  Buff the finished repair with the buffing compound provided in the kit to restore the gloss finish so it matches the original.
 * 26)  Clean up the area, and admire your handiwork.

Tips

 * Large cracks or holes will require using fiberglass reinforcing mesh or cloth, which will usually come with the kit you purchase. This may make the repair a little more difficult, and you may even want to seek help from someone who has experience using it.
 * For large holes in the floor of a tub or shower unit, use an expanding foam product to fill the cavity below the floor. This will help support the floor, preventing future cracks.  Use the product according to the directions on the can, and trim or sand off any excess foam that is protruding about the finished surface.
 * A power rotary tool equipped with a buffing pad will save a lot of time and effort when buffing out the finished repair.
 * Polyesther resin products are temperature sensitive, so providing a heat source will accelerate the hardening. On the other hand, if you are concerned about having time to complete the repair before the resin solidifies, you can cool it before mixing to extend its working life.
 * Use disposable tools and mixing containers if possible. Cleaning polyesther resin requires a strong solvent like acetone, and must be done immediately after use, so usually it is not practical to do so.
 * For very large repairs, a power sander may make the process much easier.
 * Before adding the hardener, place a small amount of the the tinted resin on the surface of the tub to check for color match. Adjust as necessary. When cured, the resin will be slightly lighter. After getting the color match, wipe the resin off of the tub with acetone.

Warnings

 * Use rubber or plastic gloves (usually provided with the kit) when using cleaning solvents and mixing the polyesther resin.
 * Make sure you have plenty of ventilation while doing this repair.
 * Acetone or other solvents are highly combustible, so be sure there are no ignition sources like water heater pilot lights in the immediate area prior to beginning the repair.
 * Avoid using styrofoam cups or containers for mixing your materials. Acetone and related solvents will dissolve styrofoam and spill the solvents or resins onto your bathroom fixtures and floor.

Things You'll Need

 * Fiberglass tub/shower repair kit described above
 * Cleaning solvent, such as acetone
 * Rubber or plastic gloves

Related Tips and Steps

 * How to Fiberglass Something
 * How to Remove Sticky Residue from Non Slip Items in Bathtub
 * How to Clean the Non Skid Strip in the Bathtub
 * How to Troubleshoot Plumbing Problems