Build an Adjustable Dog Agility Seesaw

This won't be USDAA or AKC approved, but it will be super for training, and will seem like the real thing to you and your dog, right down to the non-slip footing. You can make it for about $60, a good part of which will be for paint! Also, it is fairly quick and easy to build. The lowest height is about 8", easy enough for even the most timid of dog, and has three additional heights including the standard 24" for USDAA and AKC. Build one of these, practice, and your dog will be doing the teeter like a champ in no time!

Steps

 * 1) [[Image:Side_142.JPG|thumb|28" high, 40" wide]]Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 28" for the uprights.
 * 2) Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 40" for the feet.
 * 3) Measure to find the centers of the feet and mark with the pencil.
 * 4) Nail one upright to each foot, making sure it's in the middle and the bottom of the upright is even with the bottom of the foot. Use 2 nails in each.
 * 5) For the angled pieces, take one of the remaining pieces of 2"x4" and line up the bottom corner of it with the inside bottom corner of one end of one of the feet. Angle it up so it crosses the upright about 12"-18" from the bottom. Draw a line on the angled piece where it crosses the upright (it will be about a 45º angle). Also draw a line on the upright where it sticks out past the end of the foot (that is, you'll cut it so it will be even with the end of the foot).
 * 6) Cut along these lines.
 * 7) Check to make sure the angled bar fits: Line up the bottom with the inside end of the foot and the top flush against the side of the upright. Check it in all four places where the angled pieces will go; it should fit everywhere.
 * 8) * Since this angled piece fits everywhere, you can use it as a template for the other 3 pieces. Lay it on the 2"x4", mark, and cut.
 * 9) [[Image:Base_0.JPG|thumb|Angled supports and cross pieces]]Nail each angled piece in place. They go on the inside of the feet, with their ends even with the ends of the feet, and flush against the uprights. Put one nail in the bottom, then fit and nail the top, driving the nail at an angle through the support and into the upright. Then put another nail in the bottom. Make sure all nails are flush with the wood.
 * 10) From the bottom of each upright, measure up and mark at 8", 12", 18", and 24". These marks are where your holes will be. Also measure across each upright and mark the middle (do this at the top and bottom of each upright), lay your yard stick on the upright aligned with these marks, and draw lines that cross your 8", 12", etc. marks. Where your lines cross it where you will drill your holes for the pipe.
 * 11) Drill the holes. With the point of your drill bit right where the lines cross, drill each hole. (You can put the upright on 2 scrap pieces of the 2"x4" to help you not drill into the floor underneath.)
 * 12) Cut 2 17" pieces from the remaining 2"x4"s. Nail them on either side of the uprights (which are on the inside) to connect the two sides, and make sure they are also even with the bottom of each side.
 * 13) [[Image:Gravy_w_base_660.JPG|thumb|The finished base]]If it feels a little wobbly, reinforce the base with wood screws until it is stable, mostly where the feet, uprights, and cross-pieces connected. Just a few should do it. Now the base is done!
 * 14) Choose a back side of your 2"x12"x12' teeter board. Measure from each end to find the center (it probably won't be exactly at 6'), and mark it.
 * 15) [[Image:Center_pipe_straps_176.JPG|thumb|3 pipe straps, 1-2" off-center]]Place the fulcrum. You want the fulcrum (tipping point) to be 1" to 2" closer to one end of the board so that end will stay down (the teeter is a one-way obstacle), so measure and mark these. You can loosely attach two of the pipe straps so that they "bridge" the 2" mark, and put the teeter together by running the pipe through one 24" hole, through the pipe straps under the board, and out the other 24" hole. Then do a not-very-scientific drop test by putting a 3-lb. weight (box of laundry detergent) on the up end 12" from the end and timing how long it takes to hit the floor. It should be less than 3 seconds. In this case, the 1" mark was used; see what you like.
 * 16) Take the pipe straps off the board and mark the contact areas, 36" from the ends for USDAA, 42" for AKC. Paint the contact areas yellow. You'll probably need 3 coats for the yellow. Paint it once and let dry. Then paint it again, and this time lightly sprinkle play sand on it while it's still wet; try to get it kind of even. (You only need sand on the top of the board of course.) When it's dry, sweep off any loose sand, then apply the third coat of paint. When the yellow's dry, do the same for the blue area; you'll probably just need the first coat with the sand and the second on top of it. Viola! A beautiful no-slip surface, just like the real thing!
 * 17) Paint the base all over with the same blue paint, 2 coats.
 * 18) [[Image:Pipe_straps_on_238.JPG|thumb|3 pipe straps screwed into position]] [[Image:Loose_pipe_strap_446.JPG|thumb|Keep the screws a bit loose]]Screw the 3 pipe straps onto the back of the teeter board, with the pipe in place to use as a guide. If using the 1/2" straps, don't screw all the way in, but leave them a bit loose so the pipe will slip through without too much trouble.
 * 19) [[Image:Ready_to_assemble_19.JPG|thumb|Board, pipe, base, ready to assemble]] [[Image:Assembly_384.JPG|thumb|At the lowest setting, ready to go]]Assemble your teeter and enjoy!

Tips

 * Don't use pressure-treated wood-- it will be way too heavy! The paint will protect it outside.
 * Go slowly. "Measure twice, cut once" is an old saying but true.
 * Have treats on hand to reward good behavior.

Warnings

 * Be careful with the power tools. Keep your fingers away from the circular saw blade and the drill bits.
 * Wear protective eye wear.

Things You'll Need

 * (3) 2"x4"x8' studs
 * (1) 2"x12"x12' board
 * 2-1/2" or 3" galvanized nails
 * 2-1/2" or 3" wood screws for extra strength if desired
 * (1) 1/2" 18" galvanized pipe (in plumbing section)
 * (3) 1/2" pipe straps (or maybe try 3/4") plus 1" screws for them (6)
 * Play sand
 * Flat exterior paint (I used latex for easy clean-up): 1 quart each of yellow for the contact areas and another contrasting colour of your choice (blue is traditional), brushes, painter's or masking tape
 * NOTE: Don't use pressure-treated wood-- it will be way too heavy! The paint will protect it outside.
 * [[Image:Tools_402.JPG|250px|right|Tools]]hammer
 * Circular saw
 * Power drill with phillips head screw bit and 1" drill bit
 * Tape measure and/or yardstick
 * Pencil
 * Eye protection goggles

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